Reinhold Messner

Reinhold Messner was the first to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders

Reinhold Messner (born 17 September 1944) is a mountaineer, adventurer, explorer, and author from the Italian autonomous province of South Tyrol, “whose astonishing feats on Everest and on peaks throughout the world have earned him the status of the greatest climber in history.”

He is renowned for making the first solo ascent of Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen and for being the first climber to ascend all fourteen “eight-thousanders” (peaks over 8,000 metres (26,000 ft) above sea level). He is the author of at least 63 books (in German, 1970–2006), many of which have been translated into other languages.

Reinhold Messner was the first man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders in the world and without supplemental oxygen. His climbs were also all amongst the first 20 ascents for each mountain individually. Specifically, these are:

Reinhold Messner

Year Peak (height in metres) Remarks

  1. 1970 Nanga Parbat (8,125)
  2. 1972 Manaslu (8,163)
  3. 1975 Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) (8,080)
  4. 1978 Mount Everest (8,848), Nanga Parbat (8,125) First ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen.
  5. Nanga Parbat: first solo ascent of 8000er from basecamp
  6. 1979 K2 (8,611)
  7. 1980 Mount Everest (8,848) First to ascend alone and without supplementary oxygen – during the monsoon
  8. 1981 Shishapangma (8,027)
  9. 1982 Kangchenjunga (8,586), Gasherbrum II (8,034), Broad Peak (8,051) Also failed summit attempt on Cho Oyu during winter
  10. 1983 Cho Oyu (8,188)
  11. 1984 Hidden Peak (Gasherbrum I) (8,080), Gasherbrum II (8,034) At one time without returning to basecamp
  12. 1985 Annapurna (8,091), Dhaulagiri (8,167)
  13. 1986 Makalu (8,485), Lhotse (8,516)